Good day to hit the babyes!! (beaches)

July 19, 2004 | Category: blog, old website posts

waves at coronado in san diegoThere’s a swell that just hit San Diego, so I decided to go body boarding at Coronado today. Turns out the swell brought in larger waves than I had expected. For the last couple of weeks, the waves have been small to flat. When I got there, I saw some pretty big waves as far as I’m concerned. They were 4-6 ft waves, and some even taller. I picked a spot on the Northern part of the beach, near the flags that seperate the surfers from the bodyboarders and swimmer.

As I paddled out, I learned that the waves were pretty damn powerful. They were bigger and more powerful than I’m used to riding. It didn’t help that I only got about 4 hours of sleep last night, leaving me with less than desired energy. I was able to duck dive a couple, but my timing was off on others. The waves were very powerful, but not that fast moving. I got pulled under, and the wave took total control of me. It was pretty damn scary being held under in pitch black water, not knowing where up and down was, how long the wave was gonna hold me. As soon as I resurfaced, I barely had enough time to get air before another monster came. Three of these waves in a row, and I was pulled deep into the surf territory. I’d feel fear and panic, but panic just makes things worse, and I just relaxed until I was spit out of the wave.Then, I was like “f*ck this shit” and paddled back to shore as fast as I could. When I got on the beach, I headed farther South towards calmer waters. The waves were smaller but still had good form and power. But as luck would have it, when I finally got out the lineup, bigger waves started to develop. Even worse, a rip current started to develop as well. Everytime I moved, the big waves and rip current seemed to follow. It would decide to form where ever I moved. I even saw two people getting rescued by lifeguards. I was at the beach for about 3-4 hours and was only able to catch 1 wave. It didn’t even have good form, and I couldn’t ride the trim line. After the initial drop, most of the ride was through foam. I decided to call it a day, and caught 1 last wave in. The sight of the waves was beautiful, but unfortunately, they were more powerful than I could handle. If you plan to head to the beach today, don’t take the waves for granted. Even if the waves looks small, they can be powerful as f*ck. The force of nature is amazing. Watch out for the rip currents, and have a fun day! I’m thinkin about hittin up La Jolla later on…

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